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Nikon D7000 16.2 Megapixel Digital Slr Camera With 18-105mm Lens (Black)

nikon d7000 16 2 megapixel digital slr camera with 18 105mm lens black

Nikon D7000 16.2 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm Lens (Black)

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  • High Resolution 16.2 MP DX-format CMOS sensor
  • High Speed 6 frames per second continuous shooting up to 100 shots
  • Breathtaking Full 1080p HD Movies with Full Time Autofocus
  • Dynamic ISO range from 100 to 6400
  • Ground-breaking 2,016-pixel RGB (3D Color Matrix) exposure sensor

Buy Now : Nikon D7000 16.2 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm Lens (Black)

Brand : Nikon
Category : Electronics,Camera & Photo,Digital Cameras,DSLR Cameras
Rating : 4.5
ListPrice : US $999
Price : US $999
Review Count : 377

nikon d7000 16 2 megapixel digital slr camera with 18 105mm lens black
nikon d7000 16 2 megapixel digital slr camera with 18 105mm lens black
nikon d7000 16 2 megapixel digital slr camera with 18 105mm lens black
nikon d7000 16 2 megapixel digital slr camera with 18 105mm lens black

Nikon D7000 16.2 Megapixel Digital SLR Camera with 18-105mm Lens (Black)

  • Auto Focus (AF). I want to provide my experience with the camera and my take on the AF situation.1. Back-focus. Some claim their units have back-focus issue. The camera does have AF fine-tune that can be used to correct the focus. But if amount of back-focus extends outside the fine-tune range, then it will require Nikon service. I\'m sure there are units that do indeed back-focus and need repair. But I suspect many more users mistakenly and incorrectly attribute any AF issue with back-focus. Anyone who says their unit back-focus sometimes or % of photos, then that is not true back-focus issue. Back-focus means the AF is not calibrated correctly. It will not focus right sometimes and miss focus sometimes. So I suspect the rate of true back-focus (quality control issue) is smaller than people claim.2. Auto Focus learning curve. There is definitely learning curve on getting the D7000 to focus correctly. D7000 is very sensitive and this learning curve is steeper than expected. It will takes some practice (and possibly changing your shooting method) to get the focus consistently correct.My experience. When I first got the camera, at least 50% of my images are soft for 1 reason or another. There are out of focus images, camera shakes, subject motion (try taking photo of baby and toddler who are constantly on the move), etc. I thought I had \"back-focus\" issue. After doing AF test, I confirmed there is no back-focus. But there is still AF reliability. After couple months reading web forums (particularly dpreview), I finally learned the tricks on improving the AF reliability.First off, why so many people (including me) had problem with AF? My take:- 16 meg. With 16 meg, you can zoom in to 1:1 and still see quite a bit of details. So any out of focus shots will be very apparent 1:1. This might not be the case with older DSLR with less than 12 meg.- AF sensor. Web forums stated that the AF sensor size is larger than what users see in the viewfinder. This can cause confusion on exactly where the camera focuses. Sometimes the AF sensor focus on more contrasty region outside the AF box, which is not what the photographer intended.Here are the suggestion on focus:- Use 9-point dynamic AF area mode.- Use the center AF point only, rather than the other 11 or 39 AF points.The center 9 AF points are cross type, so they can focus on both vertical and horizontal features. The other AF points are either vertical or horizontal, which are not as sensitive. If using the center AF point with 9-point dynamic AF area mode, then all the center 9 cross-type AF sensors are being actively used.- Use AF-C, not AF-S. With AF-C, the focus is continuously being updated. While focus is activated, move the camera ever so slightly, so the subject (area where you want to focus on) is being moved around the AF box in the viewfinder. As you are doing this, the focus is being updated and improved. When the focus stops changing (you can hear it in the lens) even as camera is being move slightly, then you know you have focus locked. You probably don\'t have to do this all the time. But for subject that can move (like kids and pets), indoors (lower light), and low contrast subjects, this really helps.- Use 1/250 sec or faster shutter speeds. I was used to using 1/90 sec and sometimes down to 1/60 or 1/45 sec on P&S. There is no way I can use these low shutter speed without camera shake and blur on D7000. I basically use 1/250 sec or faster, even with VR lens. I sometimes push to 1/180 sec when needed, but I notice more blurry photos. Your mileage can vary depending on how steady your hands are. But expect to use faster shutter speeds than you are used to.- Use AF-ON. Personal taste. I just find using AF-ON with AF-C together works better.- If your lens is VR, make sure you hold the shutter button half-press for 1 sec before clicking, because it takes some time for the VR to settle. This is particularly true if you use AF-ON for focusing.Even with the AF learning curve, I still rate D7000 5 Stars. I have being using D7000 for over 1 year now. The image quality, low light performance, dynamic range, and features are just incredible. Luckily, I\'m able to figure out the AF issue (or non-issue) 2-3 months after I got the camera. Now, I don\'t even think about the AF while shooting. I can keep my attention on the subject and framing; and enjoy the resulting images.If you don\'t want to deal with the AF learning curve, then stay away from D7000. Out of focus photos are no fun and there is no way to recover those images.
  • My first camera was a Minolta SRT 101 when I was in the US Air Force serving in Thailand in 1968. I was not really in photography when I purchased it. The first time I\'ve ever seen a \"complete\" selections of cameras was at the bx store. They were Minoltas, Olympus, Nikkormats, Canons, Kodaks and Nikons. It was so intoxicating because I love prescisions in things especially wrist watches. Now, cameras? They were about half the price when I was overseas, how can I go wrong? The only name I was familiar with were Minolta and Kodak. I chosed the Minolta SRT 101 to buy, after saving a few bucks, over the others and it was a little cheaper than the others. After I got the camera I bought a small book by Kodak titled: Introduction to Photography. It covered apertures, shutter speeds, developing negatives and enlargements plus other stuffs that I skipped at first. At the base we had a photography hobby shop. I sort of checked it out and got started in developing black and white negatives and prints. The \"GIs\" that were with me doing thesame things were using more Nikkormats, Nikon Fs, Canons and Olympus\' and very few had Minoltas. It made me wonder if I made the wrong choice. That\'s when I learned that Nikon F is the best one to have and professionals use mostly Nikons. Nikons have the best metering system and lenses. Nikon invented and developed most of the metering innovations, so they said. They were always sold out and in short supply. I wanted to buy one and have saved the money for it. Seemed like everyone that wanted to buy one were \"camping out\" the store parking lot ala BestBuys on black fridays. I didn\'t get a chance to get one during the rest of my stay. The name Nikon got stucked in my mind ever since until I got out of the air force in 1968. Those guys (GIs) were correct in their praise of Nikon. I was collecting photography magazines almost each time I go to magazine stands and at the super market magazine sections. I learned more about cameras from magazine reviews and users\'reviews and advertisements. Going back to my first SLR camera,I never was really happy with my Minolta ever since I got it. It overexposes most of the times. I wanted to try a Nikon, I know it is a much better camera. I could hardly afford one then because I just gotten married and my wife was expecting too. I bought a Canon slr instead. To make the story short, When I began to earn more money, after a 2-3 years, was when I decided to by a Nikon (F3). I kept it for more than ten years and didn\'t even dream of replacing it. As a matter of fact, I have invested on several lenses for it. When the digital age came about was when I kept abreast on photography again. I decided to go digital slr just 2 or three years ago. I chosed the Canon Rebel because it was so popular and out selling Nikon. Boy, was I impressed. Nomore negatives, etc. Instant previews, pictures, nomore going to photolabs and having to wait for things. I kept the Canon for a year and a half. In fact I even purchased a Canon G7 a few months after the Rebel. I have several cons on Canon. My Rebel\'s metering system sucks when on automatic modes and flash shooting. In manual mode it is excellent because I am in control, if I take my time. The Rebel, if I can recall, only has 8 megapixels. When megapixels (all manufacturers) went much higher and have reached 12s and 16\'s was when I decided to upgrade. I chosed the Nikon D7000 over its competetitors and I love it like I loved my F3. It remined me of my F3\'s performance so much and of course the D7000 is alot smarter camera. It has the lowest noise even at the highest ISO setting. Of course the resolution is great because of its high megapixels. I really have nothing negative to say about this camera except for the video mode (I only gave it a try just a few times) and its weight. It seems to get heavier the longer I carry it on my shoulder. It is a few ounces heavier than the Canon because it is mostly made up of magnesium. It is a minor price to pay, though, for a topnotch camera and there are other cameras that are even heavier. Full frames? I just thought I\'d mention this very minor issue that most users could live with it for lack of any major thing to complain about.

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